Just thought we’d get a quick note out on Le Bun’s residency at the Zetter Hotel, as we’ve only just been and the residency only runs until 20th December - because it is rather worthy of a shout out.
Getting to take control of the kitchen at a swish place like the Zetter Hotel, which has seen the likes of Bruno Loubet spin the pans, seems like a bit of a coup for street food stall and festival circuit veterans Le Bun. But it turns out their swanky Franco-American offerings quite befit the trendy modernist establishment. And when we say swanky we mean there is a ton of ‘truffle’ and ‘confit’ being bandied about on the menu, and the aptly-titled Truffle Double Double cheeseburger isn’t shy of it.
Just fucking look at it, it is a beautiful specimen – the delightfully uneven patties are seared handsomely with American cheese submissively melted upon them. The sesame-seeded brioche is glossy, a velvety dollop of slowly melting truffle mayo is gently coaxed between top bun and patty and a bed of moist onion sits atop the bottom bun at the other end.
The taste mimics the appearance. The aged chuck brisket blend is spot on - the meat is soft, almost buttery, with the nicely seasoned seared outside adding a thick, salty hit of flavour. The cheese intermingles with each bite, present but not overpowering in that classic American cheese way. The bun houses everything well, not buckling under lashings of juice and condiment with just enough resistance. This is good guys. And also rather reminiscent of another favourite of ours, Bleecker St.: They don't look that dissimilar, and the way the cheese is melted, the beef having that same delicate softness paired with unique meaty taste, it isn’t miles away in flavour either. It is the addition of ALL the truffle that sets it apart.
The quantity of the rich, buttery truffle mayo is substantial, and when combined with the richness of the truffled veal jam and the beef it might be a bit overwhelming. Like going to the Ambassador’s party, single-handedly ploughing through half of the huge pyramid of Ferrero Rocher, only to end up hiding under the furs in the cloakroom with stomach cramps – overindulgence is not always the way to go. We had ordered some pickles which came in handy to throw in the burger to cut through the richness and add some piquant bite. Saying that this is still a great burger for the more extravagant out there, and well worth trying.
If you miss the Zetter residency, they are at Winter Wonderland until 3rd January. Hopefully they will find somewhere else to take up residency in the New Year.