Mishkin's / Covent Garden


Rob, like an idiot, ate it even though it was still a little too hot it was so nice.

Mishkin’s mashes together a few vibes:

  • a 50s pie ‘n mash shop exterior and ceiling tiles
  • some 50s Americana diner booths
  • prescription 90s Brooklyn bare brick walls
  • the signature square bar

Arriving after 9pm, it’s lit like a dive bar, while the majority of the ‘Lock, Stock’ soundtrack chirps out of the speakers.

The whole thing works, and somehow doesn’t feel forced. A testament to the polished design thinking that’s gone into it. Bravo.

Obviously, the main reason were were here was to try the steamed beef patty. Otherwise known as a slider. Upon ordering though, we were told that they had sold out for the day, very sad times. So we had to throw in some substitutions.

Reuben Sandwich

Now, we’ve had a bunch of these in the States and have rarely been disappointed, so it was first to catch our eye. And it was nice.

The pastrami was tasty and peppery, the cheese was chewy, squidgy and seeped into the folds of the meat, along with the just-there-enough Russian dressing.

Personal preference weighs in at this point: Rob found the thinly cut pastrami didn’t add as much to the texture as the chunky lumps of torn off corned beef (what we Brits call salt beef) he was used to in the Reubens he’d had in the States. The rye had also been toasted (too much in Rob’s opinion) an unnecessary measure for this sandwich. Again, this is a good sandwich, and recommended for a Reuben newb (a Reuwb?), just not the best example we’ve ever had.

Duck hash

A generous shredding of duck, intermingled with chunks of seasoned potato, still with plenty of bite to them. Maybe not necessarily a hash, as it felt like the two ingredients had been tossed together at the last minute, as opposed to being smashed ‘n fried tougher hash style, but the flavours were delightfully subtle. A fried egg topped it, with the yolk adding a sticky texture to the mouthful. And the “liquor” gravy served with it was spot-on umami juice that kept the whole thing from being too dry.

Macaroni and Cheese

Arguably our favourite restaurant mac ‘n cheese in London. Frickin’ great cheese sauce dude - syrupy cheddar ooze with a aftertaste of sharpness, topped with a heap of breadcrumbs, combining to create a smooth, crunchy, squishy mouthful. Rob, like an idiot, ate it even though it was still a little too hot it was so nice.

Mishkin’s is a very deliberate joint which really tastes like good ol’ fashioned home cooking. It doesn’t put you on edge with overt posturing; just nice, comforting, homely nosh with a smile.

  • Rob ‘thought the waitress was cute’ Pooke.
  • Simon ‘didn’t notice due to being married’ Doggett.
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Addendum

The toilets have to be mentioned because they are fucking epic - simultaneously reminding Rob of his grandparent’s house in Bermondsey (which had last been decorated several decades past, having flock wallpaper from the time before the last time it was fashionable), and Bernie Rubens’ house in Sixty Six.

Also, we didn’t take any photos because it was dark. We’ll get some when we return to try the sliders.

Sorry. Steamed beef patties.

And we still haven’t managed to get into Spuntino yet. Grr.

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