Fattburger / Soho, London


“We were even pulling hunks of lettuce with the sauce slopped over it out and eating them separately. So moreish.”

So, the other week we were banging on about the re-popping upping of Patty & Bun in Soho. And whilst one weary-but-triumphant combatant has just tagged-out, another sophomore burger pop-up tags-in just down the road, albeit with a brief overlap to double team the punters for a bit.

Much like P&B at Doodle Bar, Fattburger’s first effort was decent, but you could see the basics of a burger that, with a few improvements, could be a belter. With the Fatt crew firmly ensconced in the Sun and 13 Cantons (a name we get wrong practically every time we try to tell it to anyone), a Fuller’s pub just off Beak Street, why not see if they could pull off a P&B-style feat of betterment?

Scrumming through layer-upon-layer of after-work drinkers outside, the inside was relatively empty, probably in no small part due to the blindingly nice weather and so we plonked ourselves in the small, cute and dimly lit dining area, glancing forlornly at those who had grabbed tables by the window. Lucky sods.

The burgers arrived in logo’d bags, which provided quirk, but hands-on a pain in the ass to remove the burger from. One burger arrived strewn throughout the inside and required some emergency reassembly. No real biggie, but still, if they’d just put it in a box or something. Digression aside, they are big brutes. The new bun from Miller’s Bakery, who allegedly ply their wares to the Ad Cod and Hawksmoor (whose buns we energetically effuse the quality of), is the first triumph. It’s in the same league of great as the aforementioned: the perfect glazed coating that doesn’t crack or falter upon man-handling, holding a light and soft centre, which is toasted shut on the other side. It’s a great host to the contents.

Sat atop a charred and beautifully pink-middled patty, the Fatt Pig had plenty of Comté cheese melted over heaping curled chunks of bacon, and was drowning in garlic mayo flecked with dill. The characteristic flavours of the cheese and the roasted garlic mayo combined to make a pretty sweet richness. Add to that the blink-and-it’s-not-there smooth avocado enhancing that and you have a heck of a sweet burger that isn’t quite tempered enough by the saltiness of the bacon and patty, or the savoury wealth of pickles. Just a smidgen too sweet for us.

The Fatt Korean is the fave once again. The kimchi is a mild, less invasive example than we’re used to: very refreshing. And paired with a piquant teriyaki sauce mixed in, it’s a superbly dressed burger. We were even pulling hunks of lettuce with the sauce slopped over it out and eating them separately. So moreish.

The Chilli Cheese Fries provided us with another appearance from the obligatory London issue blue-rimmed enamel serving bowls.

If Hitchcock had made a movie in a restaurant, these would have been his culinary equivalent of crows on a frickin’ climbing frame. Even though the fries aren’t the best example in London town, they are enjoyable, and whilst the first time round the chilli was hella sweet, the second time there was a more pleasingly savoury meatiness that sat well alongside the cheese.

Even though Dr. Fatt compares his fare to MEATLiquor and In ‘n Out the similarities aren’t immediately apparent. In fact, it’s more akin to pop-up-neighbour-until-recently Patty and Bun: less dirty, and more stacked up with carefully considered sauciness. It’s good to know that a burger as solid as this is around until October, and we hope more of you lot hit it up, as there were criminally few actually eating on both our visits considering the competitive prices for central London.

Saying that, the pub is in the nice ‘n pricey bracket for booze. But we’ve heard Fatt’s do take out, so why not get on down to the Co-Op at the end of Berwick Street (or Food and Wine on Broadwick Sreet), grab some of the alcohols, and take ‘em away and sit in Golden Square in the sun.

Meat picnic ahoy!

  • Rob.

Fattburger

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