The final nail in fine dining’s coffin is that it’s simply not cool anymore. The food world is a newly hip place to be, full of facial-haired young gunslingers, whether behind the stoves, creating the artisan cheeses and saucissons or scanning the menus. They’re setting themselves up in funky mobile kitchens like food mavericks the Eat St collective in King’s Cross, or opening speakeasy-style dives such as Meat Liquor with its perfect burger obsession, or leaving city life like James Swift, creator of Trealy Farm’s silky British charcuterie. They’re chefs like Stevie Parle or Young Turks Isaac McHale and James Lowe, working every hour God sends in the pursuit of good food.
Wonderful stuff from Marina.