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Fast Food Interlude - A Midwest Report

Fast Food Interlude - A Midwest Report

A Baconator. Some wings at McDonald's. The ever-present Dorito's Loco Taco. Five Guys.

Oh, and Rob eats an entire White Castle Crave Case on his birthday.

White Castle / Brooklyn, NY

White Castle / Brooklyn, NY

Why are their burgers so tiny? Will I meet Doogie Howser if I go there? Why did they feel it necessary to change the movie's title for the non-domestic market? 

I *MUST* go to White Castle.


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Minetta Tavern / West Village, New York

This is a very famous burger. The elder statesman of destination burgers. Those who are better travelled and of a superior palate say it’s up there in the top few burgers in the entire United States.

I pretend to look at the rest of the menu while finishing a reassuringly strong Tom Collins.

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Clinton Street Baking Co. / New York, NY

When it comes to a benedict, serving it on a buttermilk biscuit is just an enormous no-no.

Hype.

Hype hypey hype.

In a city that breakfasts and brunches with the very best of them, Clinton Street Baking Company is right up there on the must-visit lists. The weekend queues can be legendary. We, however, showed up mid-morning on a Monday. We didn’t have to queue, to the point where merely asking for a table and getting one immediately seemed to piss off the Maitre d’.

So we were in, nestled at the back near the kitchen window, and we were hungry. For me, the eggs benedict is always the quality benchmark, especially in such a celebrated environment. It’s worth noting at this point that Clinton Street are all about the biscuits and gravy throughout the menu. When it comes to a benedict, serving it on a buttermilk biscuit is just an enormous no-no.

Biscuits are effectively scones. Imagine a scone with a slightly overcooked poached egg, some fairly flavourless hollandaise and some inexplicable shavings of red pepper and, er, spring onion. Sorry, scallions.

And then, when you cut into it, the biscuit (scone) immediately disintegrates. Because that’s what they do. It ruins the dish, makes a huge mess and you’re left picking out the inexplicable bits of spring onion from your teeth.

Compared to a muffin or toast-based benedict, this was a huge disappointment. I don’t mind a good biscuit when used in the right context, but here it was being different just for the thematic sake of it. One of the worst dishes on this trip in a place that seemed like it would be a slam dunk.

Oh and the pancakes were fine, but the maple butter was weird. A greasier, claggier version of syrup that had a slight burnt aftertaste. $13 is a bit punchy.

I don’t think we ordered right, but I just can’t suffer through another of their buttermilk biscuits, so won’t be back for another go.

Don’t believe the hype, and leave the queues for everyone else. Katz’s Deli is only round the block.

  • Simon.

clintonstreetbaking.com

Clinton St. Baking Company on Urbanspoon
Chocolate Peanut Butter Shake
Buttermilk Biscuit Eggs Benedict
Maple Butter Weirdness

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